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1 End And End Figuring
Fabrics in which two kinds of warp ends are used, arranged in the cloth one end of each alternately. A well-known type had one end of fine cotton alternating with one end of coarser mercerised cotton. All the figuring is done by the mercerised ends, making a figured all-over effect possible at a lower cost than using a warp all mercerised. Modern applications of this principle are fabrics in which one end or cotton alternates with one of rayon. Another variation is an alternation of one end white, one end colour.Dictionary of the English textile terms > End And End Figuring
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2 фасонное переплетение с основой из чередующихся нитей разного типа
Textile: end-and-end figuringУниверсальный русско-английский словарь > фасонное переплетение с основой из чередующихся нитей разного типа
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3 Alhambra Quilts
The cheapest quilt made, and very popular. Made all cotton with bold designs. Jacquard machines are used. The width of the cloth varies from 100 to 108-in. and length about 84-in. Standard cloths are: - (1) 108-in. X 84-in., 56 / 2 reed, 2 / 26's figuring warp, 2 / 40's ground warp, 36 picks, 6's condenser weft. (2) 108-in. X 84-in., 56 / 2 reed, 2 / 16's figuring and 24's ground warps, 30 picks, 4's or 6's weft, 100 yards of cloth from 120 yards figure, 105 ground. The coloured figuring ends vary from 1 to 4 in a mail of the harness, with one ground end to each mail. Two beams arc used, one for the coloured warp drawn through the jacquard harness, the other for ground warp drawn through the healds. For Colonial use the following has become popular: -
and 5's weft. -
4 Damask
A cotton cloth woven with jacquard designs and used for table covers, napkins, curtains, upholstery cloth, etc. They can be reversible or one-sided only. Designs may be floral or geometrical. Yams 8's to 40's warp and weft. The ground and figure are bound by uniform weaves, generally twill or satin. The figure is developed by interchanging the warp and weft and the pattern so made up that the reflection of light on the threads brings out the effect. Linen and silk damasks only differ in material, as cotton damasks are made in very fine yarns. ———————— A fabric of single structure formed by two satin weaves with figure developed in warp and ground in weft satin weaves resulting in a design that shows very clearly as a warp figure on a weft ground. The figure can be made more prominent by using coloured yam. For table damasks a cotton warp with linen weft is often used. Damasks are made in numerous qualities, but all are figured in the five- or eight-shaft satin weaves. As early as the reign of Henry VIII a damask was a rich figured satin or linen and a damask was known in England as early as the 13th century. The name is derived from Damascus and is presumed to refer to the design and not the material. The finest linen damask is woven about 126 ends and 188 picks per inch from superior flax yarns. The finished sizes vary up to 90-in. wide, 6 yards long, and as a rule damask napkins and table tops can be obtained to match. Standard cloths of single damask are made: - Five-end satin, 60-ends and 56 picks per inch, 50's T., 35's lea W., boiled; 8-end satin, 80 ends and 76 picks per inch, 50's T., 60's lea W., boiled (see Double Damask) ———————— Originally an all-silk fabric with large designs developed in many colours. It was a heavy cloth with satin ground and weft figure. Imitations are now made with cotton warp and cotton or rayon weft. Used for dresses, and when very heavy for curtains, furnishings, dancing shoes, etc. The brocade effects are developed in colour or fancy weaves. Damasse Arabesque has arabesque designs. Damasse Brocat has gold and silver weft for figuring. Damasse Broche has flowered designs. Damasse Cachenir has palm leaf designs. Damasse Chine has printed silk warps. Damasse Egyptien has Egyptian designs. Damasse Jardinier is an expensive damask made with silk warp and fine mercerised cotton weft. The design is of detached flowers in colours. Many coloured wefts are used. -
5 Blister Cloth
A fine woollen cloth, woven on the double-cloth principle with botany warp and weft for face and mohair warp and weft for back. The figuring produced by interchanging face and back is developed during finishing. The botany parts shrink and the mohair bulges on the face. Many qualities are made. One quality is made from 2/40's mohair and 2/60's botany yarns in both warp and weft. The yarns are one end mohair and one end botany. Practically all crimps and crepons are blister cloths (see Crimps) -
6 Armure Wool Fabric
Made in wide widths for use as dresses, coats, etc., good quality yarns, 72-ends, 68 picks per inch. The warp is usually end and end mohair and worsted, two-fold yarns, such as 2 / 60's or 2 / 40's - The weft is single worsted 26's to 32's. Other qualities are made from one kind of warp, but in right and reverse twist, and up to about loo-ends per inch. Cotton weft is used in the cheapest cloths, about 48's yarn dyed black. The photograph shows a typical wool Armure fabric made in a fancy rep weave 84 X 68, 2 / 60's botany / 30's botany. A heavy cloth is also termed "Armure", used for drapery and curtains, woven with brocade figuring on the armure weave ground, and all-wool yarns
Dictionary of the English textile terms > Armure Wool Fabric
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7 Pique
Sometimes abbreviated to P.K. See full pique and half pique. A type of seaming for gloves. ———————— Dobby cloths composed of two warps and two wefts. The face warp is lightly weighted, and weaves plain with the face weft. The back warp is heavily weighted, and stitches through the plain face cloth, according to a prearranged design. At the stitching points the face cloth is pulled down, causing the face to form an embossed surface. The second weft is used as wadding to make the raised figuring more pronounced. The face warp and weft are usually finer than those used for stitching and wadding and in the proportion of 2: 1, such as 2 ends 32's face 1 end 24's back. A popular cloth is made 40-in., 40/45 yards, 100 face 32's super Egyptian, 50 back 2/60's super American, 120 face picks 42's super Egyptian, and 64 wadding picks 18's super American. The finer piques are rather expensive. -
8 Float
There is also the float that is not required and which is a most objectionable fault in any cloth. It is often caused by careless weaving, although inferior yarn is very liable to produce this fault. End breakages, incorrect shedding, faulty action of the shedding mechanism, wrongly pegged dobby lags, wrongly cut jacquard cards, etc., are prolific causes of floats. ———————— Warp or weft threads which pass over the threads of the opposite series are said to be floated, and in twill, satin crepe and other weaves the length of the float is named in terms of the number of threads the floating thread passes over between two intersections. In very many cloths the sole means of figuring is the floating of the warp or weft according to a defined and prearranged plan. -
9 Warp Sateen
Cloth woven with the 5-end warp satin weave. The weaver would put four-fifths of the warp on the face, but this preponderance of warp is increased by weaving more ends than picks per inch, say 160 ends per inch of 60's warp, and 72 picks per inch of 40's weft. Many of these cloths are ornamented with good style jacquard weft figuring, and makes vary considerably from about 150 ends and 76 picks per inch, 50's warp, 30's weft, to 110 ends and 68 picks per inch, 2/60's warp, 28's weft.
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